It's not all smooth sailing. Of course, #italiansdoitbetter and #britishstyle, beat #spanishstyle by a long shot. Understanding style, a way of dressing. In the other style, the one with pints, beaches, parties, little meals, nobody beats us.
It's not that we Spaniards don't have style, it's that the other two have it or at least have had it, in a way that always better. In fact, it is difficult to attribute a specific style to Spain, with the exception of Andalusia. This goes a bit against my own beliefs, the same ones that dictate that yours truly can recognize a compatriot no matter how far he is from home. Yes, trust me, it is not just a mere comment, it is an irrefutable fact. I encourage you when you let us travel, visit New York - an incredible city - and take a walk down Wall Street. It is not exactly one of the most beautiful areas of the city, at least it is not to my taste, but it is a meeting point for the Spanish. The bull and his testicles. No matter at what time you go, there will always be a Spaniard there. Touching it.
But, regardless of my talent for recognizing countrymen - I should go on a TV game show - we Spaniards do not have that one specific style that is so recognized among Italians and English. Among the well-dressed Italians and English, anyway, since every rose...
What is clear is that neither the Italians; Neapolitans, Florentines, Romans ... not even the English, no matter how much they look like they came out of Savile Row, can say that the Teba jacket is theirs. La Teba is Spanish. Like Iberian ham from Extremadura. The potato omelette. Ribera. Rioja. The hesitation, mischief, Andalusian grace. Oil from Jaén. Pinchos at Licenciado Pozas. A plate of rice in Alicante. Madrid's cockiness. The crystal clear waters of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera. The windmills of Don Quixote. El Cid Campeador. Iniesta taking off his shirt and dedicating his goal to Jarque. Balenciaga. The Holy Family. La Giralda. La Costa da Morte. The Alhambra. The Gran Vía. El Teide. Cold beer in a bar in Tarifa. The green of Donosti. And Vizcaya. The Pyrenees. The Ebro. The Duero. The Tagus. The Cathedral of Salamanca. Of Burgos. Of Cordoba. Of Santiago. The Hanging Houses of Cuenca. Picasso. Alberti. Unamuno. Cervantes. Dalí. Lorca. The nap. Red prawn from Denia. Churros in San Ginés on January 1. The Cocido at La Daniela. The Roscón de Reyes and grapes in La Puerta del Sol. Sardinero Beach ...
Jake Grantham in a Teba
La Teba is just one more, one more to be breastfed, to be proud of. But now the English come and they say no, the jacket was originally made in London, on Savile Row, and later adapted by a Spanish tailor to meet the needs of the Count of Teba. No man no, the Teba is Spanish. The word of a Basque is unquestionable and if María Sorreluz Múgica, the tailor in charge of making the jacket, says that's how it was, it was, period. There's nothing more to say. As Oscar Wilde would say, “The English have 3 things to be proud of: Tea, whiskey and a writer like me. But it turns out that the tea is Chinese; whisky is Scottish; and I am Irish. " Just kidding, don't be mad at me. Come on, we haven't used them as an example around here ...
To be exact, the Teba was born in Zarautz and with a clear objective, hunting. A functional garment that will not make it difficult to raise the elbow when shooting. A gift from King Alfonso XIII to Carlos Alfonso Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart, AKA, the Count of Teba.
A light and comfortable shirt jacket, a hybrid between the unstructured Neapolitan form and the British style. No back opening, shoulder pads, or lining. Central row of four leather-covered buttons. Distinctive, continuous lapels, the cran does not divide it. Three pockets, two on the side and one on the chest. The first two, patched and capped, providing the hunter with large compartments to store ammunition for their weapons. The third, located on the chest, also patched, but without a cap.
And although that is the original, for the field, for hunting, for aristocratic landowners, it's not the one that's the most popular. The Siena model by López Aragón that we have in front of us, finds another, more attractive context. Its more informal appearance, approaching a cardigan or an overshirt and the type of fabric, knit, helps and is closer to the type of original purpose for which it was intended, "pigeon shooting". But the idea of LA moves away from the movie-ready part to stay on the evolution of an urban garment, which like many, was designed to carry out a specific activity, have ended up being used as street clothes.
Pablo Picasso in a Teba Siena by López Aragón
Illustration: Rodrigo Saldaña
Pablo Picasso said that art is to eliminate the unnecessary. Siena does not stop there. Its differential value with respect to others is to technically improve what is necessary. Anyone could say that more than a jacket, it was an engineering project. The type of sleeve, for example, that mixes a shirt sleeve with a tailored one, shaping the elbow, but with a single seam; or the construction on the cuffs that is worked in such a way to avoid being "rough" or "vulgar" as it is a knitted fabric ... Small details that for a mere spectator may go unnoticed, but for a reader of Spiff, no. We already know them! They love the good life!
Combine it with dress pants, denim, shirts, T-shirts, turtleneck sweaters, loafers, sneakers ... If the cardigan exudes affection, the Teba exudes casual elegance, comfort, knowing how to be. A garment from here, from Spain ... You know what they say, Spain is different.