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Spiff Magazine Logo
May 15th 2020
Author: Spiff
You, yes, you that you are there reading from your Smartphone, you probably have some Levi's.

If your work does not allow it, you will surely do it this weekend or any other day of the month or some day of the year or of your life.

Yes, even you, who have become a denim freakthat does not buy anything unless it’s from Japan; At some point in your life you have worn them, when you were a child or when you waited in the lines of the nightclubs for a doorman to say no to you, even when you were wearing one of them.

And it is that when we talk about denim, jeans, whatever God wants you to call them, you will always think about Levi's.

Levi's with its many jackets and jeans have become timeless icons known everywhere around the world. But let's talk about what actually matters. We are going to reveal to you if the Levi's jacket that you keep in that corner of the closet since the time of the dinosaurs, is worth it or not. Today we do it with the jackets. There will be time to do it with the pants.

Have you already found and removed the jacket from the closet? Well, that was probably the hardest part; The thing of rummaging in the closet, how lazy. How lucky those people who have a 30-square-meter dressing room and have everything at hand. The rest of us, the mortals, have to dive through the undergrowth. It's lazy, yes, but it has its thing.

Ok, let's get to the details. There are three types of Levi's jackets:

  • 506XX Blouse - later named as Type I jacket (1905-1953)
  • 507XX - also called, Type II jacket (1953-1962)
  • 557XX / Type III - named as “Trucker” jacket or Type III (1962-present)

If yours is one of the first two, you're in luck. You have kept a small relic for a few years, and those things pay off. They pay well, from 1000 to 6000 dollars. Not bad, right? We have even seen one Type 1 NOS (New Old Stock) on Ebay at 15000 euros.

But of course, here comes the question that you will be asking yourself while rubbing your fingers. How the hell do I know if my jacket is of one type or another and if it is one original from the period or a later production?

Whether it is of one type or another is enough to look at the images. You know what they say, a picture is better than 1000 words. Regarding to the second question, nuances resolve what the images cannot. Relax, we are here to help you. Who knows, maybe you'll be able to get $ 6000 from this couple of jokes. If so, at least, you should subscribe.

The most normal thing is that your jacket is a Trucker, Levi's most contemporary design and also the most copied by other firms. It is strange to think that we have kept a jacket for more than 58 years.

levi's type III big E

Levi's Type III or Trucker

Let's analyze your Type III:

1st. Look at the red label:

If you have one Capital e on the red label, your jacket is from 1971 or earlier.

Levi's introduced the red label in 1936 as a combative measure against imitators. This label originally came in capital letters on the front, no trademark, and no writing on the back. The design of "The Red Tab" it was mutating several times. First in 1950 when the trademark “R” and LEVI´S were introduced on both sides, and then in 1971 when capital letters gave way to all lowercase, except L.

Conclusion, if your jacket has a Big E, well, it's worth between 100 and $ 300.

2nd. Care label:

In the same year, in 1971, interior care labels are already compulsory. What if you should wash it with cold, hot, boiling water, with Fairi or KH7 ...

If you wear any of this and it's type I or II, bad, or it's fake or it's a reproduction of Levi's Vintage Clothing; Levi's signature that reproduces jackets from bygone eras. They are fine, of course, but they are not original and therefore their value is less.

If it is type III it agrees, but we are sorry to tell you that its value is not going to allow you several seafood dishes. The same for one and a bottle of wine if you meet the first point, yes.

3rd. The inner label:

OMG!, the number of labels to consider... If your jacket has an interior label and the batch number is legible, you can check the period from which it dates.

If it's labeled "557" followed by "XX", so it is before 1971.

The Type III evolved from the 557 series to the 70505, 71205, 70518 and so on, as different settings and lengths were introduced over time.

The most normal thing is that if it is a 557, it does not keep the label or you can not read these numbers. Don't worry, keep reading.

4th. The color of the thread under the flaps:

If it's lemon-yellow, your jacket is a very early 557. Reference 70505 comes with almost black navy thread under the pocket flaps. And it is that the mentioned lemon yellow was gradually eliminated, replacing it with orange thread until the end of the 60s, when they stopped using it completely.

Legend has it that Jacob Davis himself, co-founder of the brand together with his partner Levi Strauss, insisted that the thread had to be the same color as the copper rivets. Hence the orange.

Another sign that indicates that you have a 557 and not something later is the size of the label in point 3. Even if it barely keeps it, you will be able to sense the mark it has left; and that footprint is large and rectangular, much more than in those made later.

Details Levi's Type III

Big E red label, and yellowish thread.

levi's type III big E

Details Levi's Type III

Care label.

5th. Side pockets:

The side pockets are very good. They are functional, they allow you to put your hands, gloves, keys, but no. If your Levi's denim jacket has side pockets, it is at least millenial, and millennials today are already having less of a pull.

In 1984 Levi's dresses the United States Olympic team for Los Los Angeles Olympics. The boys looked more like cowboys from the Wild West. We don't know if they had a Smith & Wesson under their jackets, but almost. For this event, Levi's introduces side pockets for the first time.

6º. Does it have a single digit stamp on the back of the rear button ?:

If the answer is yes, wonderful, we have just added value to your jacket. All Levi's jackets have an identity stamp on the back buttons of their jackets.

In vintage this stamp is made up of a single digit or at most 2. Those made later come with 3-digit stamps. 555, for example, indicated the factory on Valencia St, San Francisco, which was in use from 1906-2002. Common 3-digit stamps are 524, 558, 555, 554, and are commonly found on reproductions of LVC.

Levi's type III

Details Levi's Type III

Digits on the back of the buttons.

If everything we have told you has entered through one ear and has come through another, because from the beginning you are clear that your jacket is a Type I or II, read carefully; we tell you if it is original or not. I said, if it is and you sell it, remember to suscribe.

Well, everything points to you having one Type II. Friend, if it is original, know that your jacket is worth between 800 and 1500 $ on eBay.

Levi's Type II selvedge vintage

Levi's Type II

Elvys Presley with Levi's Type II

There you are, El Rey (no, neither Juan Carlos nor Felipe), Elvis Aaron Presley, with the same jacket that you have in front of your nose. It's exciting, right? Before you start crying, it will not be us who will fade the illusion out, read all its characteristics:

  • Two chest pockets
  • Pocket flaps
  • Selvedge inside the placket
  • Tweezers. Yes, as in your dress pants.
  • Studs instead of rivets, in the pockets under the flaps. That is, tight zigzag stitches that are repeated over and over to reinforce an area of ​​fabric.
  • Rivets in vents.
  • Leather label in the first editions. Later this would be replaced by a press card.
  • Silver-colored iron buttons.
  • Back tabs at the waist.

All that said, how do we differentiate an original Type II from a LVC reproduction?

levi's type II selvedge big E vintage

1st LEVI'S with ® must appear on both sides of the red label.

If it only appears in one, it is not vintage, is LVC.

selvedge levi's type II vintage

2nd Selvedge inside the placket.

But beware, only there.

3º Lemon yellow thread and two-digit stamp.

If not, it is not original.

levi's type II selvedge

4th short and square fit.

slim fit was not handled at the time.

Have you stayed with the song? Well tomorrow more. Tomorrow the Type 1...

The +Related


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