The lockdown suffered during the first wave of COVID 19 created many things, and most could have been avoided. For starters, we could have avoided TikTok and TikTokers. Yes, I spend too many hours in front of my iPhone watching absurd videos of absurd people. Why does everyone dance and create choreography? Listen, I'm all about joy and dancing, but do not believe for a second that these people are happy. These people train to make videos of one minute, thirty seconds or God knows however long a TikTok video lasts. That is not happiness at all. We could have avoided the challenges. Too many challenges...
Even with everything, there was one thing that was not lacking: creativity. Among all those TikToks and challenges, apart from rolls of toilet paper, there were little heads of people who created trends in the form of dance, in the form of makeup, in the form of a pose ... And it didn't just happen on social media. During lockdown, ideas, companies, projects came out. Spiff came out, for example, and maybe it's not as relaxing as doing yoga with your girl, but there it is, and Butticé was born, which I am here to talk about today. Well, actually, I mean, not really born, it came out in June, when we were all enjoying some fresh air, even if it was under a mask. I suppose, however, that the idea was forged during the current situation, since these are not things that materialize from one day to the next.
Milad Abedi with Butticé shirt
Photo: David Gohar
I admit to having celebrated its existence relatively recently. A photo of Milad Abedi, fashion photographer, with one of the French brand's shirts made in Naples, was the cause. Milad, groundbreaking, as always. Cream-colored double-breasted suit, hair longer than usual and a bushy beard. Enough ingredients make any other detail go unnoticed, but no. The red and white shirt that accompanied the suit took the cake. Oh yeah, believe me. A shirt reminiscent of the great northern Italian dandies. Those industrialist entrepreneurs, architects and intellectuals. But also the elegant gentlemen that we observe behind the windows of Savile Row and the bohemian French painters who immortalize moments on the banks of the Seine. A Molotov cocktail of style, elegance and masculinity. Its creator, Stéphane, is also everything that his brand conveys. Boxer, music lover, gentleman, hippie... but above all a madman, passionate about what he likes: clothes, style, popular culture. 34 years old, born in Loir-et-Cher, the son of an Italian military father (General de la Guardia di Finanza) and a French mother, he spent his youth between Rome, Turin and Brussels, where his father had worked for the European Commission since 1990.
Although Butticé is barely over a year old, the life of the Frenchman has always been linked to the world of communication, art and fashion. Before creating Butticé, Stéphane had already worked for different fashion houses in the luxury sector, Holland & Sherry or Ermenegildo Zegna among others, and had created his own fashion magazine, Gentleman Chemistry Magazine, where his video interviews with Cifonelli or Andrea Luparelli stand out, his podcasts, and many high-quality photographic portraits.
"Probably my almost manic love for things well done went back to those memories I have of my grandfather and his way of dressing, full of sumptuous pieces, but always in the necessary quantities, never opulent", says the man from the Loire Valley while we drink coffee. He with his signature shirt and a beautiful Piaget watch on his left wrist. A different piece, little hackneyed and tremendously elegant. A kind of extension of his person and his signature, a signature that tries to distinguish itself from any other, that has its own presence, a stamp, an identity. A brand specializing in handmade shirts and ties sewn in Naples. “Butticé was born with the desire to propose my vision of a masculine style that remains elegant and unchanging over time, with unique capsules of products designed in Paris and made “pianissimo ”, by hand, in Naples, in an exclusively artisan way in sumptuous raw materials ”.
Piaget watch detail
I love people who are specialists and passionate about something, no matter what. Chess, fencing, clothing, boules ... All those people, except those passionate of TikTok, have my respect. Okay fine, even the TikTok people. Stéphane is such with his garments, garments that he defines as much more than clothing: “they can change your day, they are an extension of your personality”.
The first collection of shirts is available in 10 colors in cotton and linen fabrics, which are really difficult to find in stores. In addition, the firm has a collection of 52 unlined ties with prints that are as crazy, fun, and elegant as their creator.
Behind each of Butticé's shirts, there are more than six hours of artisan work in the Naples workshop. A process "tutto fatto a mano", from cutting to sewing and ironing. A fit which, from experience, is second to none. Slim, but not overwhelming, allowing freedom of movement. The fact that they are made of cotton and linen blends gives the garment an elegant fluidity combined with an avant-garde fit. A shirt that can be used in all kinds of contexts, from the most formal meetings with the boss of your company, with a tie and suit, to the informality typical of a day at the beach and a swimsuit.
I really like the neck. I have long discarded any shirt option that comes with a stiff collar. Even in classic OCBD options, I'm looking for a light, soft neck. I don't know if it's age or what, but I put comfort first. An elegant comfort, to be clear. Those by Butticé meet this premise. A soft Italian collar folded by hand, one of the most delicate phases where the skill of the seamstresses is appreciated.
Other details that give these shirts the category of premium is the armhole. Hand sewing an offset armhole which does not follow the sleeve and the side seam of the shirt in a straight line- allows more flexibility and therefore more comfort in the adjustment, and the difference of machine-made shirts. But the details don't end there. Details that escalate to that perfect fit I was talking about. The quarter shoulder, for example, also sewn by hand, draws an impeccable line thanks to what is known as "Dietropunto", which locks out the shoulder seam for the finishing touches.
For the most detail-oriented folks, the buttonholes, so that while yours truly is not a specialist, but he is an observer, and here, friends, quality is noticeable. If on top of that, one has the opportunity to witness the intertwining of threads that emerge from the hands of those seamstresses ... I don't even want to tell you, it's a spectacle worthy of Cirque du Soleil.
Butticé shirt detail
Ditto for the buttons, made of Australian mother-of-pearl, how could they be made of anything less, and also hand-sewn under the ancient lily stitch technique known as Zampa di gallina. How do they stay put? Well, just like me when I heard about it. To give you an idea, this technique allows a better buttonhole opening and also guarantees more solidity in the button seam. Another added value to add to the previous ones.
When you invest in a garment you do so conscientiously, we are not here to waste money, at least yours truly is not. The fly, also sewn by hand, gives the shirt durability, reinforcing and joining the front and back of it.
To finish, in case it all this does not seem enough, the throat, sewn completely by hand. The operation consists of folding this part with a soft stitch that ends with the “travetto” obtaining an elegant embroidery and a better ironing quality after washing the shirt. The mission of the travetto, a kind of embroidery made with a crochet point,
is to stop the slit of the sleeve at the level of the nasturtium. Of course, it's also handmade, adding the cherry on top to something already extraordinary.