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Spiff Magazine Logo
March 8
Author: Spiff
More Aimé León Doré, Please

A few days ago, weeks rather, I wrote something on Instagram, in my personal account. Today I want to go back to it. I'll tell you why. It went like this:

“There is a type of French woman who is the type of woman that I like the most in the world. She wears timeless garments rather than trends, although when she wears them, she does so with brushstrokes. Haute couture before fast fashion. Chanel instead of 300 Zaras. Black turtleneck sweaters and cashmere, jeans and chelsea boots. Jacket suits and monochrome blouses. She always has a leather jacket, even if she's vegan. Inherited from her father, a gift from her ex, or bought at a thrift shop in Paris. Anyway, the jacket will be magnificent. Like her. It's not necessary to tell her that the jacket suit is a trend to wear because she has always worn it. The French woman that I like buys books in old bookstores, she enjoys Joy Division, The Smiths and repudiates all music from after the 80s. She dances like Bowie danced because she knows that it is the most elegant way to dance. She has never moved her hips to the sound of reggaeton and she doesn't know who Tangana is. Surely if they're mentioned to her she'll make a face of disgust, because the French woman I like has that look, of contempt, of pity, of sparing your life, and that face is the most provocative in the world. Slightly drooping eyelids to compensate for the upper lip. She smokes, because smoking, if you do it right, is sexy. And if you are French, even moreso. Although she is more sensual than sexy. The French woman I like has dabbled with drugs only experimentally. She doesn't want to have fun, she wants to feel more. The French woman that I like reaches for the scissors from time to time, cuts her bangs to see what happens. The French woman I like is the one who at one point makes me feel capable of anything. The one that awakens the wildest hopes and most atrocious despair. The one who, as soon as you meet her, you know that you're starting a battle, that of love, and it will not be easy. Achieving excellence is not easy. The French woman I like is hated and persecuted by everyone, because we all want her, she always has the face of having had sex the night before, and she has never had it with you”.

Aimé León Doré SS2022

I never wanted to become a trend magazine, to tell you what is being worn on the catwalk today, which will surely end up in the trash tomorrow because what you had already thrown away the day before yesterday and you buy again is a trend, it's not my style.

I wanted to recover my little extract of love for the French woman –although I would say that she is more Parisian, or what my mind reflects of them-, because for me the Parisian woman will always be a woman with personality. She will be able to consume fashion, yes, but with brushstrokes. Don't you realize that the one who is devoted to trends is a being without any personality? Would you jump out the window if Jacquemus told you to?

There are two things I hate about fashion. That they tell you how you should dress and that they recover chav fashion. The French woman will never let herself be seduced by chavism, why the hell does chavism suddenly rule over all? I already know that the human being is the only living being that stumbles twice over the same stone, but when the stone is a wall, I have a hard time understanding it. Didn't we learn that Beckham is better now than when he was wearing pointed toe shoes, white blazers and diamonds in his ear? Apparently not, the trend is to go back to the 90s and 2000s, to bucket hats, ball necklaces, Levis engineered and logos galore. Sorry if I sound stale, but wow! You see how Johnny has recovered his father's leatherette jacket and now he wears it with a fishing hat and a sweater tucked into his pants and you remember that you had already seen this and you also remember that only Brad Pitt could look good in it. And that's because he was accompanied by Aniston, if not, then definitely not. You see how Jane does nothing but go out in oversize jacket suits and you remember perfectly when you yourself told her years ago that you loved that style, and she rejected it. “It's very masculine”, she told you over and over again. "I want skinny jeans and heels." The French woman would never have said that.

But among all that marketing maelstrom of brands, which sometimes verges on the humiliating –yes, sometimes they laugh at everyone-, there are a couple of brands that, even in communion with trends, have done me in. The first, Bode, the second, Aimé León Doré. Today I come to talk about the latter.

Aimé León Doré SS2022

The New York urban fashion brand founded by Teddy Santis is gaining more and more followers. Many of them, coming from a "more classic" sector. Much of the blame for this comes from his collaborations with somewhat more traditional firms; Drake's, New Balance, Clarks, Woolrich... New Yorkers have been able to choose clothing and accessories from each of these brands and give them a youthful and wonderful modern touch. All this in a preppy context of 90s rappers, culminating in a lookbook presentation that delights any of us who spend hours and hours on Instagram.

All this has been noticed by the arm of the luxury conglomerate LVMH Luxury Ventures, dedicated to investing in small creative brands, and for a couple of months, they have acquired a minority stake in the New York brand.

One of the most famous collaborations was the one that ALD did with New Balance in 2020, Runners are not normal. It was also probably the reason why Santis himself was named creative director of New Balance's "Made in the USA" line last year. Aimé León Doré, our favorite streetstyle brand.

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