A few months ago I met an old friend. A cook like none other I have ever met, he makes my legs quake every time he whips up his famous steak tartare with mustard in his restaurant in Formentera in the area of Es Pujols, the part of the island conquered by the Italians. One day he revealed the recipe to me. The endless ingredients have prevented its reproduction, although I am very afraid that it would not have turned out the same. Once I start calculating amounts of salt and water and I mess it up.
He's Argentinian, and the last time we met he was surprised by my thinness and trousers. "You're so skinny, boludo! Why are you wearing your pants so high?" I laughed and didn't answer. I preferred not to. Since I was 16 years old, I am 33, my weight has fluctuated between 62 and 68 kilos. No matter how much I eat or not. So in terms of being fat, well, I've never been fat, I thought. I also thought that it would never have crossed my mind to ask Maradona why he kicked the ball like that... so, in the same way, I would never ask why trousers are high. Trousers with a low waist and stingy rise, are not trousers, they are something else. Especially if they do not comply with the first premise. There are words for tight trousers. Over my dead body.
Here comes a parenthesis: many times the mistake of speaking is made, here in Spain, I suppose this is not the case in the rest of the world, regarding high or low waist in pants. "The pants are high-waisted," say many of the boys who, sticking out their chests, tag their posts with the hashtags sprezzatura & gentleman; they confuse preppy with ivy and they classify themselves as tailors when in fact they only take measurements of the cuff of their pants. Not to sound snobby, but, how lazy! You are not a tailor, nor are the pants high- or low-waisted. When we want to refer to this part of the pants we must use the word rise. The actual rise is the distance between your crotch/hips and the bottom of the pants. It's not that your hip and your crotch are the same thing, can you imagine? It's that they are more or less at the same height. More or less, don't grab them with cigarette paper. Although after sticking it to influencers of menswear, we deserve it.
Sean O'Connery in front-facing pleated pants
Trousers -well, actually any pants, whether dress or not-, have to be located at a height where the crotch is noticeable, but not uncomfortable. If you fear for your limbs and offspring, the rise is too high. If it's the opposite, the rise is low. The widest part of the pants is the hips, so if you wear pants well below the crotch, you will get, as my friend Agustín says, "the Cantinflas effect", also known in other more eschatological, ordinary and mainstream parts as , "diaper pants." An absurdity. Calling it and leaving it like that.
In conclusion, there is no high or low rise if you wear the trousers where they should go. Ditto for what they say about "the back of the pants" ... Already the expression produces doubts, back and pants in the same sentence? The seat! Not the back. Let's keep going.
As I was saying, I decided to ignore that surprising comment from my friend. Surprising because I would never have expected it from someone who makes the right choice at the right time. If he's like that in the kitchen, he should do it with his wardrobe. But no. He didn't have to know and his steak tartare is a wild card first and foremost. As outrageous as it may be.
If my friend is good at cooking, the Asians at Yeossal are good at making clothes. Shirts, jackets, pants ... Everything is a yes. I live all the time thinking of gurkhas and one-piece collared polo shirts. It's torture, I want it all. They are at that point of being able to sell me anything. Among all the options, I choose trousers, but now it's time to design them.
Waistband, fabric, design… Singaporeans have thought of everything. If the salt and water thing were hard for me, let's see what comes out of this...fear.
The first doubt, pleats yes-pleats no, is easy. Always pleats, not folds, another common mistake. Choosing between inverse or forward is already more complicated, but a photo of Sean O'Connery playing James Bond is enough to settle for the latter. That and three hundred internal debates on the anatomy of the human body and proportions. Not even Da Vinci with his Vitruvian man could show this.
The difference between one type of pleat or another is that the latter are pleated inwards while the former are pleated outwards. The forward are more associated with the English style, while the reverse to Italian. Also, I choose a double pleat; greater width, greater comfort, greater volume. My challenge is to get conservative trousers without falling into the retro costume. That and not falling into indecision. It has only just begun, I still have to choose a waistband, fabric, buttons, pockets ... and I am one of those who doubt whether to buy licorice with or without sugar. Oh boy.
I like all waistbands so regardless of whether I go with one or the other, I'll be happy. A long extended front tongue with cinching suits me fine. Now, the type of fabric and the factory. VBC, Dugdale, Spence Bryson, Lanitex, Stendeven… The choice of cutlery for your wedding banquet is nothing compared to the Yeossal catalog. I go for 100% Stendeven wool, 10 oz, medium gray… A high-twist plain weave with a dry texture from the Explorer collection. Everything must be very British secret service agent. I don't pay too much attention to the rest of the details, not the pocket, nor if the bottom of the pants measures 1.5 or 1.7cm ... I don't care, whatever God wants.
Yeossal Forward pleats
5 weeks have passed and the pants are here. I admit that the wait has been long. That desire to have them has taken over me and my patience, but I finally have them; so nicely folded, so beautiful... Those garments that one feels sorry to take out of their packaging because of how well they are presented. But what the hell, I do, I've been waiting weeks for this moment. I am suddenly approached by endless doubts. Was I correct when I indicated my size? Watch how I did the converting wrong from inches to centimeters... And the fabric? The color? Here I go, there is no going back.
Wow. Just by putting one of my legs through I notice the quality of the pants, the quality of a hand-cut fabric. Moderately high waist compared to what I already had, well, that's what I was looking for. A more tapered than slim leg, also done well. Slanted front pockets following the line of the body and a roomy leg, I like it. Being able to put your hands in your pockets is a fundamental exercise, and access to it is much more comfortable this way. Forward pleats don't open, perfect, otherwise it means the front is too tight, and that's not what I want.
I am amazed as well as surprised. And not for Yeossal, but for me. I knew that they would do something good regardless of my possible mistakes. I shielded myself in that, in their talent. Because I was convinced that something could have been wrong. That the choice of fabric would not match the type of waist. That the size would be wrong. I was expecting a disaster and I have received the opposite. I have bespoke trousers without being bespoke. The length, the waist, the seat...everything is perfect. I don't know if after the influx to inquiries Yeossal proposed to change the web to make it more accessible. It's not that it wasn't already, it's that I'm too clumsy. With the new update, which is almost an offline experience inside of the online experience, even I could customize my pants without having to ask them. Another thing is that I doubted... Let's not ask the impossible. Thanks, Yeossal.